Lovebird Traning Questions

I breed Lovebirds, and out of all of my birds they are the loudest. If you get one they aren't so bad, but the more you have the louder they are. I have moments where I can't hear the TV because of two little pairs lol. On the other hand, I love my Lovebirds dearly. They are my absolute favorites with their huge characters. I would really look at getting a single hand-raised Lovebird, if you get two chances are they won't want to spend any time with you. Then you have the chance of breeding and so forth, overall one makes for a better pet. I would make sure the breeder has a health guarantee even if it's only for a few days, that their birds are well kept and sanitary, the breeder can correctly name the mutations, and the birds are not related. Those are anything a good breeder will have/offer. I would also pick one out that has JUST finished weaning in the last few days, often times breeders will stop weaning and stop handling the birds. They lose their tame status often through this.

Love Birds

They are aggressive little buggers, but are personally my favorite. A Lovebird can do a lot of damage to a Cockatiel, and if it's a female Lovebird chances are she'd be more then happy to. My males are very calm and relaxed, and my females will draw blood if they feel you are a risk. A Lovebird that is bonded to you will be very jealous of other birds, heck it can take months and months to get two Lovebirds in the same cage. Don't get discouraged, separate rooms are best! Many of my birds can not be in the same area together out. As for the cage behavior, it's called a bored bird. My Lovebirds are trained to stay on their cages, if they were locked inside all day they'd go nuts. I remember one day I couldn't let Lawney out and she spilled all of her food, water, worked at the rawhide knot holding her toys until it came down, and then banged the dishes. They are like any other parrot, they need lots and lots of attention. Spyros will bang his food dish until you let him out in the morning as well. They are highly intelligent creatures, they know how to get your attention.

Love Bird Questions

It's common for a new bird to be awfully quiet. My newest pair took a long time to finally get to the point where they were comfortable. It's worse when they are non-tame, because human interaction is frightening. Where as a single Lovebird who was hand-raised will chirp and screech for attention. You can try playing videos of other Lovebirds singing and chirping for her, and whistling to her is great also. Lovebirds very easily pick up trick whistles too. You need to have her out of the cage to get her to a tame state. Open the cage and offer millet from your hand, start at a stem length and over time get down to a small piece from the palm of your hand. Once you have reached that trust mile-stone you should be able to slowly work in petting the bird while she eats from your hand. Once she finally has hand trust down, you can start asking for the step up. It just takes time, and a non-tame Lovebird is one of the hardest birds you can take on to tame.

Introduction to Lovebirds

Personatus, you surely know more than me when it comes to Lovebirds. I just don't think it's a good idea to suggest to people that these birds should ever be introduced. I have no doubt that you would be able to successfully introduce two, but I just don't see it as being one of those things you should suggest to everyone. It's definitely not the same as introducing some of the other Parrots. I had no issue introducing my Cockatiel to my Quaker or my Conure... and I wouldn't have an issue saying to give it a shot if it were a different species. However, unless this was a very calm well mannered Lovebird I just don't see it ending well. The size difference is huge as well, it's not like introducing a Conure to a Cockatiel as I mentioned, it's an African Grey to one of the smallest parrot species in the world. There is no guarantee that your going to get a calm, non-territorial, docile Lovebird. They are known for getting into trouble! Even the chicks I sell with a no bite guarantee wouldn't necessarily get along with another bird. I had one little male this time around who was bullying a Cockatiel by 7 weeks, even though they had been around each-other and other birds from week 2. It comes with the species, and I feel it's one of those boundaries you have to respect personally. Although there will always be exceptions, I don't suggest specifically introducing a Lovebird to an African Grey you don't know much about.

Why Don't all Bird Eggs Hatch

Infertility, poor nutrition, hen doesn't sit on eggs (cold eggs), bacterial infections, etc. It is not always easy to determine why some eggs just don't hatch. In my experience, usually one or two eggs simply don't hatch. It's usually the last eggs laid. Consider the obvious: a hen lays six eggs. The first few are going to get the "best stuff". This might sound simplistic, but in nature, the smallest baby often does not thrive; hence, the term "runt." I have had a few runts who did quite well in the long run; they simply required a longer weaning time and more care. Some of my best and sweetest babies have been the runt of the clutch. Nature knows best. Not all eggs are meant to hatch. Obviously if none of your eggs are ever hatching, you should be concerned. But I would not be overly concerned about one or two not hatching in a clutch; I think many people overreact to this. Believe me, in nature all the eggs do not hatch every time.

Cage Considerations and Nesting Boxes Love Bird

There are two ways to breed lovebirds: in large aviary groups or by individual pairs in separate breeding cages. Because I want to carefully control the color mutations in my lovebirds I use the latter method. Besides, it is much easier to "keep the peace" among lovebirds when they have separate cages. You can remove pairs from flight cages at breeding time and place them in smaller cages more suitable for breeding. Obviously, the bigger the cage the better. The birds should be able to "beat their wings" without hitting something every time. They should be able to climb and play for exercise. If you don't have enough room for this, you're probably not in a position to breed birds at this time.
Many people think that supplying toys and the like will distract birds from mating. I don't find this to be true, and birds with a varied environment are happier and hence more likely to make good parents. Don't forget: lovebirds are very playful, clownish creatures and they need an appropriate "stage" for their antics.

The nestbox is your next consideration. While many people use a large parakeet or cockatiel box, I have found that I get the best results with English budgie nesting boxes. These open on the side via sliding, two-part door. They have a little raised platform at the entrance, then a lower area for the hen to nest. These are nice because the hen can have company while nesting (the cock will sit on the perch over the raised platform or will sleep directly on the raised platform) without being crowded. I think it also makes it less likely for eggs to be cracked if there's ever a panicked rush into the nestbox because they dive on the raised platform first, then move down to the nesting area.

Make sure you nesting box doesn't have sliding doors that are "swollen" as this makes it very difficult to inspect the eggs. If the doors are very tight in the grooves, I remove them, file or sand down the edges a bit, then put them back in and test for easy sliding. It will be less agitating to your hens if you don't have to wiggle and force the door every time you want to peek in. It's your choice if you want to leave in the concave wood piece that is traditionally included with budgie nesting boxes. Lovebirds make quite elaborate nests, so you don't generally need them. However, if you have a lovebird who's a lazy nestmaker, you may want to keep this wooden piece so eggs don't roll around in the nestbox.
I hang the nestbox on the outside of the cage, then use wire clippers to cut a hole in the cage wall. Make sure you file down any sharp points on the cut wire. Make sure the nestbox will not get wet in the rain. I use plexiglass to cover my outdoor cages year-round. It keeps out harsh sunlight in mid-summer and keeps them dry during the rainy season.

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The Best Size Cage for a Lovebird

What is a good cage size for a lovie to be in? I think Peanut's cage is 18"x30"24" or something. I can't remember off hand, if I'm wrong I'll update it when I get home. I would recommend nothing smaller. They are small birds, but very active. She uses every square inch of that cage, as well as her "play stand" which consists of my bird proofed large computer desk, with a play gym and array of bird toys arranged around my PC. You probably know, but bar spacing is important too, since they can get their little heads through some narrow spaces. I think I've heard no more than 1/2"? I've seen some of the others on this forum recommend some amazing flight cages, I can't remember which I've seen posted a lot, but I hope someone provides a link. They are really great.

Caring for Lovebirds

One of my lovies didn't want anything to do with people when I first got her. She would fly around and explore like no other! Typically I would wait for her to settle down - she likes to nap in the curtains and such. If I found her relaxed in a small space like that, I'd quickly (and of course gently) scoop her up and show her back to her cage. We've gotten to the place now where I can usually call her back to her cage, but every now and then I have to find her, usually in the curtains, and put her back myself. So far that's worked for me. This was in a single room though, maybe between two rooms every now and then - might not have went as well if she wanted to fly through the whole house at first!

My How do you stop Lovebird Biting

She has reached maturity and is hormonal. This will only get worse if it isn't dealt with. By far, the best thing you can do and a real must for her, is to shorten her days, lengthen her nights. Giver her 11 hours of sleep a night. Long days trigger this type of behavior in her. Other things to avoid, anything that she can consider a nesting place (sleepy huts, tents, large food bowl), mirrors, and stuffed buddies. keep rearranging her cage, just don't do it with her in it. Handler her more, don't let her bite! Avoid it at all costs and if she does bite, giver her a consequence for it if you can, putting a lovebird on the ground is a pretty good consequence for most. Get her (or make her) toys that she can chew, palm shredders and popsicle toys are good.

Interact With Your Lovebirds

Daily, and for several hours. As a single bird, she needs a lot more attention than she would if she had a companion bird. As it is, I'm standing in for her mate, and that means lots of cuddles and ambient attention. She is a velcro bird, so this might not be the attention other people's birds demand, but she will get about 2-5 hours of indirect attention (she's either on me or on her play-stand while I do something other than focus solely on her,) but I'll talk to her, walk over and scritch her, or bring her foot toys. Then, as she requests it, at least an hour of 1:1 time spread through the evening. Just me, Peanut, and a lot of cuddles. Probably more than an hour, if you count all the time I spend watching her nap in my left hand thinking "Now, if there weren't a bird in here, I could be doing something productive.

Hormones Lovebirds

Lovebirds do not do well as single birds. It may be one of her problems.

This isn't true, depending on the care provided. Kept singly they do require a lot more attention to remain happy but they do fine. A glance at these threads reveals several examples of single, happy, well adjusted, companion lovebirds. Lovebirds do require company to be happy however (human or bird,) so it is true a bird left alone will not do well.

As for her hormone problems, I also find it strange they are happening so young and without things like a nest being available. Still, it might be a matter of waiting it out for a while. It's my understanding that the first hormonal cycle is the hardest on both the bird and it's people. She's young, and like a teenager could have trouble with that sort of thing. Still, I only have experience with one bird, also a single female lovebird, and her first outburst would have been over 10 years ago so my memory could be spotty. I do remember my hands being covered in little bite marks, if that's any indication of trouble. XD One thing I do remember doing is when she would get humpy, I would put her back in her cage for a few minutes. Not for long or as punishment, just give her some time to get herself under control and snap out of it. She would go into some kind of humping trance and I would have to sit on my hands (the object of her affection...) just to get a reprieve! Maya has some good advice, try rearranging her cage or moving it. It sounds like, with all the biting, she is very territorial. Does she have a toy or area she is protecting or trying to mate with? If so, it should be removed or blocked. Like you've already done with your ponytails, just removing these little things can maybe stop her. Is she trying to gather nesting material too? If so, keeping her away from things she uses could also help. Another thing you could try is a sort of simulated winter, put her to bed earlier to make it seem like there is more darkness.

Finally, if all else fails, she should eventually stop being hormonal... until next year. In my experience, it's gotten easier with time too. Not only has Peanut (seemingly) learned to control her urges better, I've gotten better at avoiding her triggers. The past several summers have gone humping and egg free.
Still, it would give you another year to work on your bond with her, and foster more trust. Hopefully as she trusts you more and matures even when she does get hormonal she won't be so quick to attack.

Lovebird Teather and Harness

A few months ago I wrote with a concern I had about the petite Aviator Flight Harness - I found the elastic that's meant to soften any mid-flight halts to be too strong, as had taken off unexpectedly and ended up being flung backward when she reached the end of her line. When they wrote back, they detailed some changes they had made since I'd gotten my model years ago. They also mentioned they had smaller birds on the harness, which I thought was interesting. Maybe they're working on a size for smaller birds? I hope so, because I've been wanting to try a harness for Anica for a long while.

Lovebird Breeding Tips For Beginners

Female lovebirds are usually larger than males; they are also more aggressive and can be quite stubborn. The males are more cuddly and my Harley was a hand fed baby but does not like to be handled; but he loves to land on me and hang around on my shoulders and head. He will take treats from my fingers while on me and every now and then he wants a head scritch. I inherited three Peach Faced lovebirds from my wife when she left and those three were totally wild. However, once I started leaving them out of the cage for exercise (I was terrified of them and knew nothing about parrots), I had to use a net to get them back in their cage. To my surprise, the lovebirds taught themselves to return to their cage when I would tell them "bedtime". If they were lax at going into their cage, all I had to do was repeat the bedtime order and pick up the net, and whoosh! in the cage they went.

Breeding Tips and Advice LOVEBIRD

Is your pair DNA sexed or previously proven (with each other)? Are you sure you have a male/female pair? Since you found an egg, you know for sure one bird is a female. Again, since this is the first egg, you have time to hang a nest box for them. The hen's brood patch is not at incubating temperature and will not reach proper temp for several days yet.

1. I hang the boxes on the outside of the cage (yup, I cut bars if necessary) and add aspen shavings until the box is full to within 1" below the entrance hole.
2. If your pair is Peachfaced, Peachies are not great nest builders but mom will add material if it's available and will re-arrange the shavings to suit her own taste/needs.
3. Put the egg in the box and hope that momma lovebird lays the next one in the nest instead of elsewhere.
4. If she doesn't go into the box, there's no great damage done because there's nothing developing.
5. You won't see the beginnings of chick development for at least another 7 days.

Separating Breeding Lovebirds

One thing with lovebirds is you never assume anything, two hens will act like a pair even to the point of mating, I would suggest you have them sexed, either by someone who is an experienced breeder or have them surgically sexed by DNA or an avian vet. The fact they have built a nest means nothing, two hens will also do this and they will even lay eggs and sit on them just for the hell of it ;D, so the first thing is for you to do is determine what sex they actually are then take it from there. The DNA came back as a PAIR, so hopefully they will breed soon. It's funny but one is taller and leaner than the other, I thought that was the male but the stumpy one is the male. We called him George after George Cozstanza. I put leg rings on them for the DNA tests. The male does not mind but the female did not like it at all so I removed it.

1. Will they wait for spring now or is there a chance that they may breed earlier?I put a new nest log in to try that.
2. What experience do you guys have about whether they breed a few times a year or just once in spring?
3. We went to the Nowra bird sale and show last week. It was great.